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Hey, Scudie…yes all jukebox in the titles or lyrics.
Been having a little trouble lately posting to this forum, I have a youtube video that explains it, but have not been able to post. Look for 3031 on youtube.
So I am working a SC, I have a 1 and 2 that are in various states of disassembly.
The SC1 is chrome that is in fairly good nick but is presenting some technical challenges.
The SC2 works correctly but is in bad cosmetic shape.
I considered powder coating or re-chroming but saw your post on the coating process and explored re-chroming here and it’s a little too expensive. I had some pinball parts re-chromed and later regretted the cost.
So, I may do some cross-leveling of parts to get the SC1 working.
I’m going to do a Ipod adapter on this one – music management is so much easier for these 100+ songs than the MP3 adapters.
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Hi Randy
Yeh avoid powder coating, the best way I have found to refinish the case other than re chroming is to have the case stripped by an electro plating specialist, then primed and sprayed by an automotive body spray shop. Have done a couple this way.
What problem are you having with the SC1 ?
Have had my head in a Hacker Gp42 record player with a Garrard automatic turntable and Valve amplifier from the 1960’s for the last couple of weeks, I think I have just about got it sorted.
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Hey Scudie, just the normal issues with the SC1 – no response from the coin switches when tripped.
I have removed the APU and wiper arm assembly for cleaning ( they were dirtier than any other box I have worked on for some reason). Also replaced the speakers.
Just have been slow on re-assembly as other projects have taken priority.
Your turntable/amp project sounds interesting, I have not yet had to deal with vacuum tubes although I have a W1-L56 wireless that I’ll get to eventually. Not sure if I can pull the pulse from it to signal an emulator but I’d like to get it running properly anyway.
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The coin switches on the Sc1-4 will not work because there is no power to them (originally powered from the jukebox) if you have a set of the instructions for the I pod conversion kit there is a explanation about the coin switches & powering them through a wire wound resistor.
Have not had any issues with the valve amp part of the Hacker all the problems were related to the turntable , it would play a record if the turntable was spinning and the stylus was manually placed on a record.
The auto function was totally unresponsive, stripped it down found a couple of components seized & a lot of grease that had set a bit like toffee, after a good clean and some newly lubricated components I have the auto function working, my only problem now is the turntable seems to vary in speed a little maybe the rubber wheel that transfers drive from the motor to the turntable is slipping slightly ?
Cheers Scudie
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OK – I have looked at the WIpod instructions and see it now. What threw me off was the SC2 seeming to work with coins and no mods.
I’ll take another look at the SC1 – thanks for the info, that’s why this forum is so great.
I just do not like to modify the original operation of these boxes if I can avoid it. Which is why
I prefer to retain the original slug rejector/coin mechs rather than removing them to accommodate emulators and transformers and enabling with free-play options.I understand issues with folks thinking they were helping machine operation in the past by applying grease and other heavy lubricants to mechanisms that were engineered to run forever with strictly light lubes, home pinball owners were apparently not aware of this from some of my experiences.
Thanks again Scudie
Randy
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Ok, I guess I just did not pay enough attention when I first powered up the SC-2. I reassembled it this morning and had another look. Some previous owner had already modified this one.
They have shorted the three wires but have run them through a 6/10 Amp fuse rather than a resistor.
When I hit a coin switch there is movement in the APU but it does not add a credit.
When I select a song it does not subtract a credit, So apparently what I have is a system that is basically in perpetual freeplay, which may not be a bad thing.
In the meantime I ordered the proper resistors
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Hi Randy
To be honest I don’t know why that the resistor is required, I just remember reading it in the paperwork for the CD adapter iPod stuff.
Infact on the very first SC1 that I bought, I purchased a resistor and connected it as described only to then realise the the complete APU 10 unit and its wiring / plug was missing. So removed the resistor as it was completely unnecessary.
I remember feeling rather stupid when I realised it was missing.
Cheers Scudie
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84L41lh06LM
Hey, Scudie…yes all jukebox in the titles or lyrics.
Been having a little trouble lately posting to this forum, I have a youtube video that explains it, but has not posted.
So I am working a SC, I have a 1 and 2 that are in various states of disassembly.
The SC1 is chrome that is in fairly good nick but is presenting some technical challenges.
The SC2 works correctly but is in bad cosmetic shape.
I considered powder coating or re-chroming but saw your post on the coating process and explored re-chroming here and it’s a little too expensive. I had some pinball parts re-chromed and later regretted the cost.
So, I may do some cross-leveling of parts to get the SC1 working.
I’m going to do a Ipod adapter on this one – music management is so much easier for these 100+ songs than the MP3 adapters.
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