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Hi doogle,
Your didn’t mention what you are feeding the sound into, but if first check using a pair of headphones into the 3.5mm Jack onboard the WallBox2MP3 and see if the sound is OK. Also, there is a bank of DIP switches #3 switches between Amolifier type A/B and D. I have mine set to A/B feeding the speakers in my wallbox and it plays great.
To me, it sounds like you are feeding into an amplified device and it is limiting it out. Reply back and let us know what’s going on.
To all who offered help along the way, “Thank you!”
I finally managed to get my SC2 functioning as it was designed to. Turns out it was a combination of things keeping her from operating correctly. It required the button reset bar to be adjusted, the switches needed adjustment and finally the WOM (Wall-O-Matic) wiper assembly adjustment. Those three items, and a good coin slot cleaning was all it took.
I’ve wet sanded the whole unit as the copper coating was in tough shape, and sprayed it gloss red. I needed to replace the front and side glass which required some graphic work. It actually came out better than I thought. I need to make a cable and replace a few light bulbs and it’s ready for display. I’ll post photos when it’s completely finished.I’m ready to re tackle the 3WA again!
Hi Scufir,
just learned something funny… when I enter “Scudie” my auto correct changes it to “Advisor”. 😂
i have managed to make some progress, albeit a little bit. I have determined that there is a switch that interrupts the signal when disconnected (presumably to prevent cheating?). I followed the signal wires backwards to this switch. The wire is white with a blue stripe. If I bypass the switch, I can get the LED I added across the signal wires to flash. I know I need to figure the adjustment procedure for this switch and the rotating wiper. A service manual for the SC2 would be nice, but I can’t seem to find one. Perchance do you have one?
Hello all,
I learning a lot about these wallboxes… like how incredibly simple their task is, but how complex a task it is to do it! I’m also learning that there isn’t a whole lot of repair options for someone to breathe life back into them. For my 3WA I’m going to leave it for now without unique selections for A-V + 0.
For the SC2, its a bit more complicated. I have the thing working, but am receiving no signal from BLUE (3rd connection from the right on the large connector) to ground. Interestingly, If i look for signal from BLUE to 24V I do show signal, but the voltage is always high, and goes to ground causing the signal to be inversed.
Anyone have any ideas where to start on this? Has anyone used a reliable company to repair these stateside if I admit to defeat? (I’m not ready for that, yet!)
Scudie,
I’m starting to understand these things, if only a little. I did check the gears, and they appear to be in good shape, but didn’t tear them apart. I have to imagine that someone has a 3D print rendering of them?
Once I connected as you outlines, it came to life. Buttons didn’t work but it woke up. A few hours tweaking and cleaning and it is working. Too tired to hook it up to the WallBox2MP3 tonight.
I did notice that the buttons pop out almost immediately, where as on the 3WA they stay in for a few seconds before clearing. Don’t know if that is normal for these units?
Have to ask a personal opinion: this unit is a copper unit that is in tough shape… certainly more than some polish. Saw one that was refinished in gloss red and thought it was quite sharp. Would giving it a nice coat of red lacquer detract for the collector value of this item? They do have copper-ish spray paint, which is an option.
Also, the front glass and left glass are cracked. I notice they have silk screening on them. What do people do ? Just replace the glass with plain? Look for someone selling old glass? Buy aftermarket?
Scudie,
You have a great memory! No, I have not made any headway. As near as I can figure, It has to be shutting off signaling prematurely on the “0” selections. If I check them with a DVM they read as they should, they only are wrong when the wiper spins around. That tells me my button switches are OK and the wires to the “disc” are OK. I’m not familiar enough with the switches to know which one cuts off the reading (though I did read something about they do stop it to prevent people from playing without coins.). Any ideas are welcome and appreciated!
As for the SC2 I’m going to try your suggestion, and will report back.
Hi guys thanks for taking the time to read my post.
i’m new at this game. But I’m trying to take the time to learn how these things work. I’ve mapped out each pin to its corresponding pad on the disk. I’m fairly certain that there are no broken wires as each pad changes from 0 to 24 V depending upon which button is pushed I have attached the mapping of these ports.
Initially I thought that the problem was a broken wire as well. However I can make the selections change from the first 190 songs to the last 190 songs always missing either the first 10 or the last 10 depending upon which setting I have in the M20.sel file. Altering the File name of the M 20.SEL file seems to change the letter selected up or down depending upon the value selected. However, I still can only get either the first 190 songs for the last 190 songs to play never the 200.
file name of the M 20.SEL file seems to change the letter selected up or down depending upon the value selected. However, I still can only get either the first 190 songs for the last 190 songs to play never the 200.
Gaelle has assisted me with a suggestion to try adding a 50.3wa, but it does not seem to have any effect at all.
I’ve had my V.15 for about a week now. I do not see any date code information, but there may be something so screen onto the board. I’ll have to check.
I’ve had my V.15 for about a week now. I do not see any date code information, but there may be something silkscreened onto the board. I’ll have to check.
Once again thank you for any thoughts that you may have I’m sure that will be able to resolve this.
Hi guys thanks for taking the time to read my post.
i’m new at this game. But I’m trying to take the time to learn how these things work. I’ve mapped out each pin to its corresponding pad on the disk. I’m fairly certain that there are no broken wires as each pad changes from 0 to 24 V depending upon which button is pushed I have attached the mapping of these ports.
Initially I thought that the problem was a broken wire as well. However I can make the selections change from the first 190 songs to the last 190 songs always missing either the first 10 or the last 10 depending upon which setting I have in the M20.sel file. Altering the File name of the M 20.SEL file seems to change the letter selected up or down depending upon the value selected. However, I still can only get either the first 190 songs for the last 190 songs to play never the 200.
file name of the M 20.SEL file seems to change the letter selected up or down depending upon the value selected. However, I still can only get either the first 190 songs for the last 190 songs to play never the 200.
Gaelle has assisted me with a suggestion to try adding a 50.3wa, but it does not seem to have any effect at all.
I’ve had my V.15 for about a week now. I do not see any date code information, but there may be something so screen onto the board. I’ll have to check.
I’ve had my V.15 for about a week now. I do not see any date code information, but there may be something silkscreened onto the board. I’ll have to check.
Once again thank you for any thoughts that you may have I’m sure that will be able to resolve this.
