[Sooner]

Is the proper voltage being applied to the relay? I’ve had Seeburg relays buzz if the voltage was too low.

[Sooner]

Sounds like a problem with your file. Did you have one that worked previously?

[Sooner]

I use Windows 10 and have never had that problem. Maybe a problem with your new input file.  Did you keep a copy of the old file? Does it still work?

[Sooner]

I think you might need to increase your screen resolution.  For Windows that’s under System -> Display options.

[Sooner]

Aluminum plate will polish up nicely.  Same as cast.

[Sooner]

Looks great! How did you cut the slots? They look perfect. Are you going to polish the front to match the rest?

[Sooner]

Hi Gaelle,

The missing selection problem was discussed on the forum here:

Missing Selections & Cancel Function

and briefly here:

Seeburg 3WA (200) incorrect song selection

Since then I’ve also noticed that even when random play is off it misses some selections. It seems like it has something to do with how quickly multiple selections  are made but I haven’t tested it it too much as I don’t have the patience.

[Sooner]

Thanks Klaatu,
So what’s different about the 1.4 on eBay vs. the 1.3?

Some questions about the new 1.5 version:
1. Has the problem missing manual selections been fixed.
2. Has the problem rejecting more than one selection been fixed?
3. Do you still have to reprogram the SD card to change from random to manual mode?
4. Is it still necessary to separate the negative speaker connections if using the class AB mode?
5. I assume there’s still no Bluetooth transmitter?

On version 2, what does the smart phone connection allow you to do?

[Sooner]

I’m confused. I see there’s a version 1.4 for sale on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/wallbox2mp3-V1-4-jukebox-emulator-for-seeburg-wurlitzer-Rock-Ola-etc-wallbox/293158929742

And now there’s a version 1.5 available?

And Version 2 coming soon?

[Sooner]

Yes the chassis is connected to the 24V “common”.  Interesting to know the chassis can also be grounded.  I may need to retro-fit some of mine to be safe.

[Sooner]

I use a standard lamp cord: https://www.ebay.com/p/7008911664?iid=163681903193

I also put a 1 amp fuse in front of the transformer (although 1/2 amp would probably be better).

[Sooner]

Another thing I learned since I originally posted is that hot glue doesn’t stick to the PCB very well.  I had to re-glue mine using epoxy.

[Sooner]

My experience has been similar to Scudie’s.  I think it may be more likely to miss songs if the selections are made rapidly but haven’t tested that theory because I don’t really have the patience.

[Sooner]

Sounds like a defective unit. Their quality control is a bit lacking. I received 3 units recently that were defective. The first one was probably damaged because the power supply was putting out double the voltage (10 volts instead of 5). The other two had a defective audio amplifier.  I’ve also heard of units with a diode installed backwards, and one where the remote volume control worked as a balance control instead. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[Sooner]

If you’re not using the wallbox to make selections then you shouldn’t need the 24v power. All you need is the 5 volt power and speakers to run the wallbox2mp3 in random play only.

Strange that you need to make a selection first in one of yours to get random play started. Never heard of that problem.

[Sooner]

I’ve only used the remote for one of mine and as long as I get the switch in the correct location it works the same as the one mounted on the board.

I notice on both that the high frequencies are cut significantly when volume is below about 75% with either control. It’s more noticeable with headphones or using my home stereo via Bluetooth.  On  my Seeburg SC1 boxes I use the buttons to control volume and I keep the volume on the emulator high. That prevents the highs from being cut and also makes the parasitic buzz in the left channel unnoticeable.

Scudie – Are you still going to try the amp replacement on one of yours to see if it solved your left channel buzz?

• This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by Sooner.

[Sooner]

Good to know about selection numbers being different. Are they printed on the title strips correctly?

Skipping and/or substituting some selections is a known problem. I notice it particularly when it set to play random music too. Also does it occasionally when random music is off. I think that may be from making selections to rapidly. Seems like it needs a second or two to digest the previous selection.

[Sooner]

I had a similar problem with an SC1 and it went away when I cleaned the APU credit unit. I haven’t worked on a 3WA and don’t know if it even has an APU but You might clean any relay contact you do have.

Also, on SC1s there’s a mysterious orange wire that I understand can cause problems with some emulators if it’s not disconnected. When it’s connected the wallbox signal defaults to ON when the unit is at rest. If disconnected the signal defaults to OFF. Again, don’t know if a 3WA has something similar or not.

You might want to ask in the forums also:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/Jukebox.Wallbox.Consolette.Convert.2mp3/

http://jukeboxaddicts.proboards.com/

[Sooner]

I would start by checking the pulse codes from the wallbox. You can do that by connecting a 24V light across the wallbox signal and ground. When a selection cycle runs you can see the pulses. They’re too fast to count so you can either:

1. Make a slow motion video

2. Disconnect the power to the motor and turn the contact rotor manually.

Here’s a slow motion video I made of my SC1  for selection A1 (9 + 20 pulses).  I believe the pulse codes for a 3WA will be reversed: A1 (2+1 pulses), A2 (2+2 pulses), B1 (3+1 pulses) etc.

[Sooner]

If you’re using a wallbox2mp3 emulator the type of wallbox must be selected when you build the SD card.

[Author]

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